DIRTBAG: The Legend of Fred Beckey

Hailed as one of the most prolific, influential climbers of all time, Fred Beckey’s adventures began in Washington’s North Cascade range with his brother Helmy in the 1930s. In 1942, the Beckey brothers cemented their place in alpine lore when the teenagers survived an incredible second ascent of Mount Waddington — considered the most difficult climb in North America at the time. This success marked the beginning of Fred’s epic tear of first ascents around the world, during which he became the consummate “Dirtbag” climber: defined as one who forgoes material comforts and defies societal norms in pursuit of a nomadic mountaineering lifestyle.

Throughout the 20th century, Fred’s accomplishments exceeded anyone in the sport. He shattered records with an unparalleled string of superhuman first ascents, bushwhacking trails and pioneering direct routes thought previously impassable. He eschewed fame, sponsors, family like and the politics of the industry so his only obligation would remain conquering the next summit. Fred’s individualistic attitude led to him being passed over when the first American climbing team formed to summit Mount Everest in 1963, but the exclusion only drove Beckey to seek more summits, and he continued climbing until he passed away on October 30, 2017 at the age of 94.

In later years, the man who once bounded up granite and ice with graceful elegance and ease became challenged with the simplicity of everyday life. Fred slowed physically, but his zeal for the outdoors never waned, as he steadfastly continued plotting new routes up undiscovered ranges for the next generation of climbers and explorers.